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Aonach Beag and Aonach
Mor |
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| The
Munros |
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| Looking down into Glen Nevis
from the ridge up to Aonach Beag. An Steall waterfall is in the
centre. |
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Country: Scotland |
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Location: Glen Nevis. |
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Accommodation: Fort William (hotels, B&B), Glen
Nevis (Youth Hostel,
caravan/camping site, nice B&B and bunkhouse at Achintee House). Camping is
allowed in the upper glen (beyond the carpark and Nevis Gorge). |
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Transport: Train and bus station in Fort William. A
summer bus service goes to the carpark in Glen Nevis. |
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Trip Dates: 11 September 1992 and May 2001 |
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Introduction |
A great high ridge near Fort William stretches for around 9 kilometres
from Glen Albyn in the north to Glen Nevis in the south. It parallels the even
higher ridge to the west that climbs up to Ben
Nevis via Carn Dearg (with a high bealach
connecting the ridges at an altitude of 830m). The topmost points on the ridge
are Aonach Mor (big hill, 1221m) with its flat broad summit and Aonach Beag
(little hill, 1234m), to the south and better defined with crags to the south,
east and west. The massive corries to the east of Aonach Mor are best seen from
Glen Spean while the rugged slopes along the entire ridge can be seen from the
Grey Corries.
Both Munros and a couple of Tops can be climbed from Glen Nevis (the
best route) or from the north, either starting easily from the top of the
gondola through the skifield or less easily from Fort William. A thrilling
expedition for the fit walker and long summer days is the "Big Four" - through
Glen Nevis to Aonach Beag, Aonach Mor and then across the bealach to Carn Dearg
and Ben Nevis.
I did not actually bag Aonach Mor on the first trip - for some reason I
decided not to continue on from the bealach below Aonach Beag (perhaps the 10
metre visibility and strong winds discouraged me). Instead I contoured over
steep slopes and crags around to the bealach below Carn Dearg - this is
definitely not a recommended route. However I come back in 2001 and climbed
Aonach Mor from the north.
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From Glen Nevis |
Start from the carpark at the end of Glen Nevis and follow the path up
the glen and into Nevis Gorge. After a pleasant beginning, the path becomes
even better as it becomes rocky and clings nicely between the crags above and
the rushing river below. Keep an eye ahead as there are glimpses of An
Gearanach with the An Steall waterfall at its foot. A kilometre of walking
brings you to some grassy river flats (good camping) and a three-wire
footbridge across the river. Continue on another kilometre past the flats to
the bridge across the Allt Coire Giubhsachan and the ruins of Steall cottage
(more isolated camping available here). Above you to the NE is the large and
craggy Corrie nan Laogh with the south-west ridge of Aonach Beag providing one
wall and the sharp, shapely peak of Sgurr a'Bhuic on the other side. The direct
route to Aonach Beag is to climb NNE over steep, hummocky ground for 1.5
kilometres - curving towards the north to reach the south-west ridge. This
ridge leads easily to the summit about 3.5 hours from the carpark.
A longer and more scenic route includes a couple of Tops on the way up -
Sgurr a'Bhuic (963m) and Stob Coire Bhealaich (1101m). Head NE from the Steall
ruins, following the banks of the Allt Corrie nan Laogh for a kilometre on a
faint path. This brings you to steeper, craggy ground around the 500m height
with another kilometre of climbing up to the 800m level. Get to the Top by
either heading directly south to its west ridge or continuing above a branch of
the stream for 500 metres to easier slopes up to the ridge. Either way, the
ridge has a fine sharp edge to the south. Stop for the great views, especially
across to the Grey Corries.
Leave Sgurr a'Bhuic and drop sharply NE along the tops of crags to a col
at 898m. Climb for 500 metres up grassy slopes to a small unnamed peak at 1048m
and turn to the west along a stony ridge with many glorious views through the
crags into Killiechonate Forest. Don't expect any trees though - this is a deer
forest not a tree forest. Stob Coire Bhealaich is soon reached and then you
take a NW course up stony ground to the summit plateau of Aonach Beag (4 hours
from the carpark). An alternative is to traverse the upper slopes of Coire nan
Laogh to gain the south-west ridge and good views back into the corrie.
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| A foggy view of the summit cairn
of Aonach Beag |
A short steep plunge through rocky slopes to the NW, guided by the steep
crags on your right, beings a well-defined bealach at 1080m. Easy grassy slopes
to the north take you to the summit of Aonach Mor in a bit longer than a
kilometre. This is marked by a cairn (as is that of Aonach Beag) which may be
hard to find on the flat expanse of the summit plateau in misty conditions.
To return to Glen Nevis, return south towards the bealach but keep near
the western cliffs (but not too close!). In about 750 metres (at map reference
192722), there is an ill-defined and steep spur that leads W down to the
bealach below Carn Dearg. Be very sure to find the correct point since the
slopes to either side are very steep. From the col, head south down a good path
along Coire Giubhsachan and its quickly growing stream. Just short of 2
kilometres later, there is flatter, marshy section of the corrie where the path
becomes indistinct and departs from the stream. There are some drier patches on
the flats that are suitable for camping. At the end of the marshes, the path
climbs a little to give good views of the rushing waters of the stream and then
descends straight into Glen Nevis.
Alternately, continue north along the eastern cliffs to drop down to
Aonach na Nid and then NW to the Snow Goose restaurant at the top of the Aonach
Mor Skifield gondola.
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From the North |
It is possible to get a head start on the day by taking the gondola up
to the restaurant, thus starting at 650m. If so then you can avoid most of the
skifield paraphernalia by heading SE to look over the crags starting at Aonach
an Nid and then follow them up to the summit. The summit of Aonach Beag is only
a short distance away.
For a longer, harder and more satisfying day, start from the distillery
just outside Fort William at Victoria Bridge. Unfortunately you should be
starting too early to sample its wares. Pass to the left of the buildings and
cross the railway tracks. There is a muddy path that leads via a track and a
line of posts to an intake (this takes water under the slopes to the factories
above Fort William) and bridge on the Allt a'Mhuilinn. Cross the bridge and
follow the bulldozed track upstream until you are clear of the forest on the
left (about a kilometre). Just before the track becomes a footpath, there is a
good spot for a swim. On a hot day this is also a good place to refill your
water bottles. Head NE roughly along the 350m contour for 1.5 kilometres and
then west to the Allt Daim. Cross the stream and climb W under the crags below
Meall Beag until you can turn SE up the ridge. Follow the line of the crags up
to the summit plateau of Aonach Mor - ignore the skifield mess to your
left.
To continue the route drop south down easy slopes to the bealach at
1080m (about a kilometre) and then up rocky slopes to Aonach Beag. Return the
same way and find the spur that leads down to the bealach below Carn Dearg (see
above). From the bealach, descend to the north and follow the Allt Daim down to
your entry route.
